Kaitlyn's Bunnies Blog

Feed

I feed 16% Tucker Milling to all of my rabbits and have never had any problems. This blog post is based on what works for my rabbits and is not intended to be the perfect solution for your rabbitry and how you feed.

Rabbit feed is a complete diet so in my barn they only get rabbit feed unless they need more calories.

How much to feed?


Extra Large - Flemish. 1 cup in the morning and 1/2 at night.
Large breeds - Californians, Cinnamons, New Zealands, etc. 1/2 cup in the morning and 1/4 at night.
Medium breeds - Dutch, Mini Satins, English Spots, etc. 1/2 cup in the morning and 1/8-1/4 at night.
Small breeds - Polish, Britannia Petites, etc. 1/8 cup in morning and 1/8 at night.

If the rabbits are more active, have litters, or the weather is cold, they will get more feed.

Why I chose this feeding schedule


I use this feeding schedule because I think it makes healthier rabbits who produce the best litters.

The rabbits will normally eat all of the feed at one time if fed once daily. This will cause them to be hungrier, eat faster, and want more. Most people who see that a rabbit is hungrier will feed them a larger portion than normal. Feeding more than the normal amount once a day does not help the rabbit. Feeding them smaller portions twice daily keeps them from being as hungry between feedings. This also helps to keep them from getting too fat from eating all of the feed at once.

Rabbits who are too fat will not breed and if they do, their litter sizes are very small. Once a rabbit gets too fat to breed, it is very difficult to take the weight off them. This is why it is important to use a feeding schedule that will prevent them from becoming overweight to start with.



If anyone needs more information about this post, feel free to message me.


Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn's Bunnies
406-852-2666

Choosing which breeder to buy your rabbits from can be quite difficult if you do not know many people who show rabbits. Below are some pointers on things to look for in rabbit breeders when purchasing rabbits to show.


Reputation


Is the breeder you are thinking about purchasing rabbits from reputable?


Check with the local shows to see if this breeder actively shows the breed you want to get into. Watch to see how the rabbits place when shown.

Always do your research on a breeder before buying from them. Look over their social media pages to see how often they post, if there are reviews on the page, and if there are common rabbit groups talking about this breeder. Most other breeders with the same breed will know each other so it is always a good idea to ask someone else if they are familiar with the breeder you are about to purchase from.

If you meet this person at a show, watch how they react when judges comment, and their treatment towards other exhibitors. Oftentimes, when someone responds to a judge negatively it is because the judge has disqualified the rabbit or made comments about it that the breeder disagrees with. Judges are paid for their opinions of the rabbits based on the Standard of Perfection. Keep the breeder's reactions and comments in mind when you are looking for a reputable breeder.


Culling


What does this breeder cull their rabbits for?


Always ask the breeder what they cull their rabbits for. Some breeders cull more for better body type or markings while others cull for various other reasons.

If the breeder you are buying from does not cull for better body type, find a new breeder. Body type is normally more important in most breeds than markings, but both are worth a lot of points when showing rabbits. Find a breeder who culls for better body type, markings, and any defects such as malocclusion.

Find a breeder who culls kits from a litter multiple times at different ages. Some breeders cull at 8 weeks and then again at 6 months which is good because that will give the rabbits time to mature more for evaluation.

You will not have a good start in showing rabbits if you start with a rabbit that is not show quality. Do not buy from someone who is against culling rabbits. Culling is how you improve your lines. If you refuse to cull then your breeds will not improve very much or very fast.

Finally, find a breeder who terminally culls. If the breeder is completely against terminally culling rabbits then you will know that the breeder is selling cull quality rabbits to the general public.


Question Dodging and Reactions


Is the breeder you are purchasing from avoiding your questions?


If the breeder you are interested in purchasing from avoids your questions or is volatile when asking for information, move on. In my experience, the breeders who get upset or angry may be the ones who have rabbits that are underweight or have other problems they are trying to hide. Breeders should be open to questions about their rabbits and their lines and should not be trying to hide any imperfections in their rabbit breeds.


Pricing and Photos


Does the quality of the rabbit align with the price?


Pricing can be very different depending on the quality, breed, and what family tree the rabbit is from. Some breeders charge more for their rabbits based on what family tree they are from, how well they compete at shows, and other reasons. Always be sure to look over the pictures of the rabbit, or look at the rabbit in person, then compare that to the pricing. It is best to view the rabbit in person because you can hide a lot of faults or disqualifications in photos. You can change the lighting of a photo, angle, and color to distort the appearance of the rabbit. This is why observing the rabbit in person is always better.


Some breeders require a deposit for rabbits before they will schedule to meet someone, especially if it is a long way from their rabbitry. This is standard practice, however; when breeders start requiring deposits for rabbits that are less than 8 weeks old it can be sketchy. You should ask other breeders about a breeder if they require deposits before rabbits are born or old enough to sell. You should always either look at a rabbit or see pictures of it before purchasing.


Lastly, always get someone more experienced in the breed to give you a second opinion on the rabbit before purchasing it. Some breeders will not allow a second person to look over a rabbit. This is something that should be a red flag.



In conclusion,


Do not trust that all breeders are going to help you in the best way possible when you are first getting started. Some breeders want to get the most money they can for a low quality rabbit that may be the first off the show table. Always do your research on a breeder before sending them money. There are plenty of reputable breeders who are willing to help people starting out, and will not take advantage of someone. If you ever feel as if someone is trying to hide information about a rabbit or anything that feels off, get more information on the breeder or find another one you can trust.




If anyone needs more information about this post, feel free to message me.


Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn's Bunnies
406-852-2666

There are several breeds of rabbits available to the public. This can make it very overwhelming when choosing which breed is best for you to begin breeding show rabbits.
Every breeder has a preference on breeds but just because a breed works for them does not mean it will work for you.

There are a lot of things to keep in mind when choosing the breed you would like to show.

Temperament and Handling

Temperament is one of the most important things to remember when choosing the breed you want to show.

Most smaller breeds have a feistier temperament than larger breeds. This can turn newer people away from showing rabbits which is something nobody in the hobby wants to see. A lot of the smaller breed rabbits are more cage aggressive which will cause people to be scared to reach their hands into the cage to pull the rabbit out. It is important not to be scared of the rabbit or it can make the rabbit more aggressive. If the owner flinches when the rabbit lunges towards their hand it will only make the rabbit more aggressive because their aggressive traits work. Small breed rabbits are normally suggested for young children because they can be easily picked up and they are not as heavy. While this is true, you also have to take under consideration the temperament of the rabbit while it is in the cage as well as on a show table.

People tend to think that larger breed rabbits are harder to handle because of their size but this is actually not the case. Most large breed rabbits are easier to handle because they are not aggressive. The larger breed rabbits will kick more when picked up which can make it more difficult to hold them because of their size, but they are rarely aggressive towards their owners. Large breed rabbits are more into kicking than they are into biting. It can be difficult for first time owners to learn how to pick up larger rabbits at first but once you learn it, it is easy to remember. Always use both hands to pick them up with. The more supported the rabbit feels, the less likely it will be to kick. Most of the aggressive large breed rabbits are ones with a new litter or just a young doe wanting to be bred.

Some small breed rabbits are perfect temperament wise but this is not true of all of them. A lot of it has to do with how the owners handle the rabbits, bloodlines, and socialization. This is why it is important to do your research on both, the breed and the breeder, before purchasing your first rabbit.

Remember that not all small rabbits such as the Britannia Petites have a temperament to match their cuteness. Do not purchase rabbits based on their cuteness, fluffiness, or color when getting started. Some people, such as myself, had to learn this the hard way and that is the reason for this particular blog post.

Always handle small breed rabbits the same way as you would a large breed rabbit. Support them with both hands when you are picking them up and do not handle them roughly.

In conclusion, do not let the size of the rabbit be the deciding factor in which breed you choose. Always choose which breed you want based on the temperament and not the size. Size is just a number on a scale and temperament is everything.

Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn"s Bunnies
406-852-2666

Good Afternoon All,

Today we will be going over tattoos and why they are important.

Tattoos are mainly used for identification purposes at shows and within the breeding program. The tattoo should only be put in the left ear for showing purposes because the right ear is reserved for the registration tattoo.

There are two different ways to tattoo rabbits. There is a tattoo clamp and a tattoo pen which both work if you know how to use them properly.

The location of the tattoo should not be at the very edge of the ear where the fur is or the rabbit will react more to the pen/clamp. There are a lot of nerves running across the sides of the ear towards the end so the tattoo should be located closer to the top of the ear where the skin is the thickest.

Some people use numbing spray on the ear before starting the tattoo and some just tattoo the ear right after the rabbit is taken out of the cage.
You can use alcohol on the ear to clean it before starting the tattoo or you can just tattoo the ear as it is. All of the rabbits we have tattooed without alcohol were left with no infections from tattoos so it is solely based on what the owner chooses to do.

The ink type should not matter too much as long as you do not purchase the cheapest ink you can find. Some people use paste inks for clamps or you can use liquid ink.

For commercial breeds like New Zealands, the clamp normally works better than a pen because their ears are thicker and tend to be more waxy. Waxy ears are hard to get a pen to go through. Additionally, the ears that are thicker will bend the needle on the end of the pen. Needles are not cheap so clamps are the way to go with commercial breeds. Just add the ink and clamp the ear real fast.

Tattoo pens can be difficult to use at first but once you learn how to hold the pen and the rabbit it is very simple.

It is strongly recommended that you do not add anything to the tattoo like balms or triple antibiotics or your tattoo will disappear or cause faded letters. The ink needs to dry before being touched or wiped away.

It is also recommended that the rabbits be tattooed at least 2-5 days before a show if you are not experienced so that the ink has time to dry. If the ink spreads out it can sometimes get on the fur of the rabbits and cause a disqualification. Judges will appreciate tattooes that were done ahead of time since they are the ones who have to read the tattoos.

Attached are some photos of ear tattoos that should show the correct location for the tattoo, how to hold the ear to tattoo with a pen, faded letters from pen tattoos, and long tattoos.


Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn"s Bunnies
406-852-2666

Always remember to check the eye color on the rabbits you are raising and ones you are purchasing! A multicolored eye is an instant disqualification if a judge catches it. This particular eye is the perfect shade of blue/grey to hide when the lighting is just slightly dark but when you put it in the light it is very noticeable. Pictured are both eyes on the rabbit. The right one is clearly dark brown and the left one is half brown half blue/grey.


Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn's Bunnies
406-852-2666

Malocclusion in rabbits is a disqualification if you are planning to show them. Malocclusion is the misalignment of the incisor teeth and it can be simple or more severe.
There are two types often mentioned at rabbit shows which are butted teeth, also known as simple malocclusion, and malocclusion.


Healthy rabbit teeth should be aligned with the two front teeth on the top and the bottom teeth directly behind them. The bottom teeth rest on two smaller teeth known as peg teeth.
A rabbit has butted teeth when the bottom teeth meet directly with the top teeth.
More severe cases of malocclusion are when the teeth come out of standard alignment and overgrow in length. Normally the top teeth grow down and curl back into the mouth and the bottom teeth grow upwards and come out of the mouth towards the nose. Rabbits with more severe cases often have a hard time eating and will sometimes have cuts in their mouth from the teeth if they are left untrimmed.

Pictured are examples of standard aligned teeth, malocclusion (trimmed), malocclusion (untrimmed), and butted teeth.

Rabbits with malocclusion should not be used in a breeding program because most of the time it is genetic and can be carried down to the next generation. It is important to either find good pet homes where you know they will trim the teeth as needed or cull the rabbit to ensure that it is not used for breeding purposes.

There are several other tooth problems rabbits can get but these two are the most common. Butted teeth will sometimes correct themselves if it is presenting in a smaller breed with a shorter face because smaller breeds sometimes take more time to develop.
I personally would not keep any rabbit with tooth problems unless it is used for a barn pet.

I plan to continue to cull hard for all severe structural disqualifications. I hope other breeders will recognize the severity of tooth problems in rabbits and cull to prevent the issue.

Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn's Bunnies
406-852-2666

There are a lot of different ways to cure or tan rabbit pelts so I will explain the process I use and why I do it this way.

Below are step by step instructions on how to skin out the rabbit to have a pelt worth using, how to prepare the pelt for stretching, stretching the pelt, and working the pelt.



Skinning the Rabbit


1. Kill the rabbit.
2. Hang the rabbit by the back legs right above the hock joint.
3. Take your knife and make a circular cut around each hock and continue with a V shaped cut towards the stomach of the animal from each side and then go in a straight line to the middle of the chest.
4. Make a cut around the tail of the animal and connect that cut to the top side of the circular cut at the hock.
5. Set aside your knife and work the pelt of the animal all the way to the neck past the point of seeing the head.
6. Cut the pelt off at the neck and work it around the front feet. The carcass should be hanging and the pelt should be off now.


Preparing the Pelt for Stretching


1. Pull off all meat that may be on the pelt by hand. Do not use a knife.
2. Be sure not to wet the pelt as this will cause the fur not to look in its prime when finished.


Stretching the Pelt


- There are several ways to stretch a pelt. There are wire stretchers that can be purchased online or you can make your own.
I made one out of wooden rods that were nailed together so that the pelt could be stretched between the rods but the best one I have used is a board that is wider than the pelt. The wooden board is wider than the pelt so I can stretch the pelt as far as it can be stretched and then gently put a nail into the very edge of the pelt. Once it is nailed on, you can apply your drying product. You can either use salt or borax.
One note for whoever chooses to use salt is that it may remove the moisture from the pelt, but it will also attracts water if it rains. Borax does not attract water, it only removes it.


Working the Pelt


There are several layers of skin you will have to remove from the pelt as it dries. The best way to do this is by removing the drying product and just peeling off as much skin as you can by hand without ripping the pelt. There is no easy way that I have found to do this other than lots of time. Rabbit pelts are very delicate and will rip very easily so knives normally will not work.


It is a good idea to keep the pelt out of reach of any other animals who may want to eat the pelt.
Do not be worried if the ants get on the pelt. Ants actually help the process because they eat the decaying meat.

This process normally takes about one week. Once this process is finished, you should have an amazing pelt.

These pelts are cured and not tanned so they will not last very long if left outside. Normally they last about 2-3 years outside but even longer inside where they are kept away from the moisture.

If you have any questions about the process do not hesitate to reach out to Kaitlyn's Bunnies for more information.

Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn"s Bunnies
406-852-2666

Summertime heat can be a problem with rabbitries because rabbits cannot take the heat like other animals.

Shelter and Shade

Rabbits cannot sit in the sun in the summertime. They will overheat extremely fast if left in the full sun. Always make sure your rabbits remain in the shade where they can get a breeze.
If your set up is with tarps, make sure your tarps are in the shade or it will basically cook them slowly. Tarps hold a lot of heat so when the sun hits them, it gets too hot for the rabbits to be under them. The same thing can happen with carports. Verify that your roof is tall enough that the heat from it does not hit the rabbits or it will get them too hot and you will have a lot more losses than if you had a taller roof.

Water

All heavy breed rabbits have a worse time with the heat than the lighter breeds such as Dutch. Always be sure that your rabbits have an unlimited supply of water in the summertime. It does not take them long to drink a 32oz waterer down in the heat of the day which is why I recommend installing an automatic watering system even though it is a more expensive way to do it.

There are two types of watering systems I have tried, Tubing system and PVC.

The tube system is not as reliable as the PVC system because it has more connectors than the PVC system. Everywhere there is a connection of tubing is a place to leak. Once the connection becomes dislodged it will leak all of the water onto the ground and the rabbits will be without water. You can install a 5 gallon bucket to feed the water to the system or you can get a larger container and put a float valve on it to ensure that the container is always full. I would always recommend you only install the float valve with the PVC system because if the tube system becomes unplugged for any reason, your barn will be filled with water because the float valve will keep the bucket full.

The PVC system will still leak occasionally, but rarely will the pipe actually break. A small leak that keeps the rabbits with water is better than a dislodged tube that drains the whole system and leaves everyone with no water. The PVC is expensive and it takes a lot of work to put the system together but it is worth it in the end. Always remember, a small leak is better than a waterless rabbit!


Breeding Rabbits in the Summer Months
Bucks go sterile if the temperature is over 80 degrees Fahrenheit which can make it difficult to get litters over the summertime. Larger breeds are more prone to this issue than smaller breeds. It is best if you breed early morning or late in the afternoon to ensure the buck is not sterile. Sometimes if there are several days that have temperatures over 80 degrees the buck will still be sterile in the mornings and afternoons even though it is cooler.
It is very hard on does to breed over July and August when it is at the peak temperature for the year. Rabbits breed best in the Spring and Fall and will likely have larger litter sizes than they will over the Summer. It is always a good idea to keep the excessive weight off your rabbits in the Spring before it gets hot and it will be a lot easier on the rabbits when the heat comes. Most of the losses I have over the Summer are in does that will not drop the extra weight before it gets really hot. Fat rabbits will not breed! I would not force a doe to breed over the summertime. If you put it in with the buck and she says no, just take her out and try again when it gets cooler unless you have a climate controlled set up.


Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn's Bunnies
406-852-2666

Rabbits make very good pets but they can be a problem if you do not know how to properly care for them in the house. They can ruin your house in a short amount of time.

Litter Box Training

Most rabbits purchased before they are 3 months old can be easily litter box trained. The first thing to do is buy a cage and a box for the litter. The box can be about 10 inches long by 6 inches wide and 4-6 inches deep for most breeds. Pine pellets work for the litter because they absorb the wetness. The litter box can be placed into the cage and most of the time the rabbit will use it. If the rabbit goes next to the box, move the box to that spot. Once the rabbit is used to using the box in the cage, you can now try to open the door to the cage to let it roam around the house without worrying about the rabbit going somewhere you do not want it to go. This will prevent the pee from staining carpets and other items because the rabbit will likely go back to the box to pee.

Rabbit Proofing the House

Rabbits chew on wires and anything they can reach. The best thing to do before letting your rabbit roam the house is to either tape up electrical cords or plug them in higher than the rabbit can reach. It is definitely surprising when you turn on the TV and it does not work because the rabbit chewed the cord. Always make sure the rabbit is supervised as it roams the house because not all cords can be moved. If the rabbit has other items to chew that are for the rabbit, it will prevent boredom. Rabbits love pine cones and wood for items to chew on.

Bucks/Does as Pets

In my experience, bucks make better pets than does. Does can be very temperamental as they get older. They always want to be bred and they can become very territorial of cage space. Once the rabbit becomes territorial of the cage there is the risk of getting bit. Not all does act like this but it is more common than with bucks. The problem with bucks is they spray pee but they are very friendly.

The best thing to do if you really want a doe as a pet is to get her spayed. Does are very high risk to get spayed due to the anesthesia dose. Getting bucks neutered will prevent them from spraying pee all over the place. Not all vets will look at rabbits because they are hard to spay and neuter due to the anesthesia.

Kaitlyn Stone
Kaitlyn's Bunnies
406-852-2666